All Chrysler vehicles with fuel injection have had some form of "error checking." In many older vehicles, a person could easily turn the key back and forth a few times to get a two-digit code. With some of the newer vehicles, a longer code seems to be used. In addition, as with all vehicles sold in the United States, the system is OBDC3 compatible, so that a standard diagnostic device can be plugged into a standard jack to get computer codes. {mos_sb_discuss:18}
When some problems are found, the computer lights up the "engine light;" others are ignored until a mechanic asks for them. The "engine light" stays on when a serious emissions or engine problem is found, until the code is erased.
Chrysler vehicles have a "limp in" mode which reverts to a pre-programmed "guessing map" for timing, fuel delivery, etc. when a critical sensor fails. Those who have been in other cars when their oxygen sensor failed can feel grateful for this feature, though it can be confusing - for example, in some (maybe all) models, the automatic transmission is limited to second gear! The engine light also turns itself on for two seconds every time the car is started so you will know the bulb still works.
The "engine light" may shut itself off if there are no problems for three consecutive trips, or three consecutives engine misfire or fuel system tests with no problems.
To get the codes, put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number, then show the error codes starting with P. I'm not sure what the other displays mean. Note that this method may not work with 2003 or later vehicles.
Here's the old method which may work if the first one doesn't: move the key from Run to Off to Run to Off to Run within five seconds. It does not always work the first time. (Run is JUST before Start). The code will show up in the odometer - thank your lucky stars for this, since the codes used to get blinked on the engine light. This could be frustrating since they sometimes seemed to pause in the wrong place...
You can also get the codes using an OBDC III scan tool. That's the best way to do it, but not everyone wants to spend the cash on these tools.
When some problems are found, the computer lights up the "engine light;" others are ignored until a mechanic asks for them. The "engine light" stays on when a serious emissions or engine problem is found, until the code is erased.
Chrysler vehicles have a "limp in" mode which reverts to a pre-programmed "guessing map" for timing, fuel delivery, etc. when a critical sensor fails. Those who have been in other cars when their oxygen sensor failed can feel grateful for this feature, though it can be confusing - for example, in some (maybe all) models, the automatic transmission is limited to second gear! The engine light also turns itself on for two seconds every time the car is started so you will know the bulb still works.
The "engine light" may shut itself off if there are no problems for three consecutive trips, or three consecutives engine misfire or fuel system tests with no problems.
To get the codes, put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number, then show the error codes starting with P. I'm not sure what the other displays mean. Note that this method may not work with 2003 or later vehicles.
Here's the old method which may work if the first one doesn't: move the key from Run to Off to Run to Off to Run within five seconds. It does not always work the first time. (Run is JUST before Start). The code will show up in the odometer - thank your lucky stars for this, since the codes used to get blinked on the engine light. This could be frustrating since they sometimes seemed to pause in the wrong place...
You can also get the codes using an OBDC III scan tool. That's the best way to do it, but not everyone wants to spend the cash on these tools.
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